Why in news?
A controversy arose when an Italian luxury brand’s 2026 spring/summer collection showcased sandals that closely resembled traditional Kolhapuri chappals. Artisans and officials accused the brand of cultural appropriation since the design is protected by a Geographical Indication (GI) tag.
What is a Geographical Indication (GI)?
- A GI is a form of intellectual property that identifies a product as originating from a specific region and possessing qualities or reputation due to that origin. India enacted the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act 1999.
- Unlike patents, a GI is collective and cannot be assigned or licensed. Registered proprietors and authorised users (often producer associations) can use the GI, but they must adhere to specified standards.
- Protection lasts ten years and is renewable indefinitely. Misuse of a GI (such as unauthorised use or misleading indications) can be challenged in court.
Kolhapuri chappals – a heritage craft
- The leather sandals are handcrafted by artisans in Kolhapur and adjoining districts of Maharashtra and Karnataka. The craft dates back to the 12th century and is associated with local cultural identity.
- The distinctive features include vegetable‑tanned leather, intricate braiding and robust soles. In 2019 they obtained GI registration, meaning only sandals produced in this region using prescribed methods can legally carry the “Kolhapuri” name.
Why did the controversy erupt?
- The luxury brand’s sandals looked similar to Kolhapuri chappals but carried no mention of the GI or the artisans. This raised fears of misappropriation and dilution of the GI’s value.
- Past cases of misappropriation include basmati rice marketed abroad without acknowledging Indian origin, turmeric patents sought by foreign entities and neem extracts patented in Europe. Such controversies highlight gaps in global GI enforcement.
- Artisans also complained about unequal economic value: genuine Kolhapuri pairs sell for a few hundred rupees, while luxury brands may price similar designs at thousands of euros without sharing benefits.
Issues with GI protection
- GIs are territorial. Protection in India does not automatically extend abroad. Without reciprocal arrangements, foreign companies can copy designs.
- Awareness is low among consumers and producers. Many artisans are unaware of legal remedies, and foreign buyers may not recognise the GI.
- Enforcement mechanisms are weak. Monitoring global markets and initiating legal action are costly for small producer groups.
- Digital marketing platforms often list imitation products, adding to policing difficulties.
Way forward
- Negotiate multilateral agreements under the World Trade Organization to recognise and protect GIs across borders.
- Build a comprehensive digital database of Indian GIs accessible to customs authorities and e‑commerce portals.
- Strengthen awareness campaigns and capacity building among artisans and producer organisations about their rights.
- Encourage collaborations between fashion houses and traditional craftsmen with fair benefit‑sharing and proper acknowledgment.