Art and Culture

Padma Doree: Eri Silk, Chanderi Weaving

Padma Doree: Eri Silk, Chanderi Weaving
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Why in news?

The Ministry of Development of North Eastern Region recently launched “Padma Doree,” a cross‑cultural textile initiative. It brings together Eri silk yarn from the North‑East and the traditional Chanderi weaving of Madhya Pradesh, aiming to showcase sustainable crafts and promote unity through textiles.

Background

Eri (Ahimsa) silk comes from the domesticated silkworm Samia ricini. Unlike mulberry silk, the cocoons are collected only after the moth emerges, making the fibre cruelty‑free. Eri yarn is soft, durable, breathable and has natural thermal properties. It holds cultural importance in Assam, Meghalaya and other north‑eastern states and received a Geographical Indication tag in 2024.

Chanderi weaving is rooted in the town of Chanderi in Madhya Pradesh. Historical records suggest that Kosthi weavers settled here in the 14th century (around 1350). The craft flourished under royal patronage during the Mughal period. Weavers use silk in the warp and fine cotton in the weft to produce lightweight, translucent fabrics adorned with zari (metallic thread) motifs. Traditional motifs include paisley and floral patterns. Chanderi textiles gained fame for their gossamer feel and were favoured by Indian royalty. Despite challenges from industrialisation, the craft revived after independence and now enjoys GI protection.

Features of Padma Doree

  • Fusion of materials: Eri silk yarn from the North‑East is blended with Chanderi’s silk‑cotton weaving, creating fabrics that are both soft and luminous.
  • Cultural exchange: The project encourages artisans from different regions to collaborate, promoting the “Ek Bharat Shreshtha Bharat” spirit of unity in diversity.
  • Sustainability: Eri silk is known as Ahimsa silk because the silkworms are not harmed. Combining it with handloom weaving supports sustainable and ethical fashion.
  • Innovation and design: Exhibitions showcase garments, home textiles and accessories that merge traditional techniques with contemporary aesthetics. Demonstrations allow visitors to observe spinning, dyeing and weaving.

Significance

Padma Doree demonstrates how Indian crafts can evolve through collaboration. By blending the eco‑friendly properties of Eri silk with the refinement of Chanderi weaving, the initiative creates unique products and encourages artisans to innovate. It also provides livelihood opportunities for weavers and spinners in both regions while preserving traditional skills for future generations.

Sources: PIB
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